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SO YOU'VE JUST BROUGHT HOME A NEW PUPPY OR GROWN DOG, OR YOU'RE LOOKING FOR ONE...

People have strong opinions about what names are appropriate for dogs. The variety of opinions about dog names can create quite a discussion. This is what happened in our family as we tried to pick a dog name prior to getting a new puppy. Should we pick a traditional dog name like Boots or Sheba? Maybe we should opt for a human name like Harvey or Jenny.

The "traditional" camp claims that a dog is not a human being and should never be given a human name. The question then arises: After what should our dog be named? I thought we could name our dog after some piece of food. After all, eating would be one of our dog's primary functions. Biscuit didn't seem like a bad name. Strawberry was another suggestion... Or we could combine those thoughts and name our dog, Shortcake. Since we are considering a larger dog, that idea was abandoned. The "human" supporters will argue that the dog is "one of the family" and should be given a name like any other family member. It is true that we often treat our pets just like human beings--sometimes maybe even better.

However, while names like Maynard and Merlin are used for dogs, I have a hard time imagining that we would still give one of those names to a human being! I suppose we could say that "human" dog names have a certain flare about them. If we are inclined towards historical figures, we might name our dog Caesar or Napoleon. We might want to consider, however, if the name is a reflection of our dog's personality. Maybe Napoleon would be fitting for a miniature dog breed, but then the historical Napoleon might not have the kind of personality we are looking for in a family dog. If we are patriotic, we might find dogs named after American presidents to our liking. We could name our dog Lincoln or Jefferson. (This assumes a high intelligence or moral character in our dog. Yeah, right!)

How do the names Nixon and Hoover sound? We will want to be careful that we do not pick a name that is confusing to our family members. If mom says, "Take Hoover outside," we might have the only child in the city walking the vacuum cleaner. The same problem might exist if we give our dog a very common human name, like Mike, for example. Some people might confuse Mike with one of our children. Or the neighbor's kid--also named Mike-- may never want to come over to our house if "mom" is always telling Mike to stop whining and behave.

Then there is the hassle of getting junk mail and credit card applications in Mike's name. Hmm- I wonder what his credit score would be! Finally, after all the discussions and agonizing, I thought we finally had a solution. Our daughter suggested that we name the new puppy after a cartoon character, like Snoopy or Goofy. "No," my wife said, "those are your father's nicknames." "At last!" I suggested, "We could get two dogs and name them "Harry" and "Potter". Oops, I just opened another can of worms!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Dan Williams has degrees in Liberal Arts, Business and Theology. He has worked in business and as a pastor. He enjoys reading, writing, baseball, gardening and spending time with his family.

You may well know the feeling of staring at your dog while he or she stares at the food dish, sighs, and looks at you with an expression which clearly says "You expect ME to eat THAT?" At those moments, you may even be wondering why you simply don’t just get a cat, which would at least be coming to you with the reputation of being a picky eater.

There aren't too many dog owners that have not found themselves in the same situation. And because you are a kind-hearted sort, your dog knows that if it waits long enough, sure enough, something really tasty shows up. Mission accomplished. Owner happy, dog happy and dog just won round one. Many owners are fixated on their dog's eating habits. That only makes things get worse and worse.

Once your dog knows it can wrangle something else out of you, it will keep on keeping on until it gets right out of hand. And if you think feeding him later will be easier, think again. It only gets worse. This type of behavior needs to be nipped in the bud immediately. Besides, who is the Alpha dog here anyhow – YOU or the dog?

Owners of finicky eaters are constantly changing their diet to get them to eat. This only makes your dog hold out to see if anything better is being offered. But these ongoing switches bring their own set of problems.

If you make sudden dog diet changes, this causes digestive upsets for your dog. Any diet changes need to be done slowly. Add a small amount of new food to your pet's current food and gradually increase that amount while decreasing the amount of the current food over a seven to ten day period.

But right now what we are discussing is NOT catering to a fusspot – so changing foods constantly isn't going to help matters any.

You have likely also been in the situation where you have purchased a whole swack of types of dog food (canned and dry) to let your dog figure out what he likes. Not a good idea, because if he doesn't like anything, three guesses who will be running out and trying to find something better. Right – you! Chances are also that your dog loves people food. Uh-huh! This also isn't a good idea either. Really, if you were a dog wouldn't YOU want to have the steak on the table rather than the kibble in the bowl?

The basic rule of thumb is if that any dog which gets hungry enough WILL eat no matter what is in the bowl. Have patience and ye shall be rewarded. Don't hover, plead, cajole, hand feed, or change the food. Just leave it in the bowl and ------- WAIT!

The value of having your dog on a timetable and on a regular dog diet can't be over emphasized. Dogs thrive on routine, and besides, if you don't establish a routine and stick to it, your dog will implement one himself. Dogs without routines and a "pack leader" take over the roles themselves and you won't like the consequences.

If you feed regularly at the same time (or close to it) daily then when the food hits the floor then your dog will be there to eat it – and will in fact learn to anticipate being fed. If you never thought dogs (or other animals) could tell time, try missing your regular feeding time one day.

Here is the most effective thing to do when you feed a finicky dog. Feed at the regular time and if they do not eat the food within 15 minutes, you take the bowl up and put the food back in the fridge. The next time that bowl comes out and goes down on the floor is the second feeding of the day. Period! Watch how fast your dog catches on to the fact if he doesn't eat when the food is there, it's GONE.

If your pal is getting adequate amounts of a palatable and nutritious food two times a day, you have fulfilled your responsibilities as far as feeding is concerned. Don’t let doggie involve you in a battle of wills like a spoiled child who won't go to bed without first having ice cream. That food dish is YOUR domain!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling THE TRUTH ABOUT DOG FOOD

The Complete Guide to Your Dog's Nutrition can help you with everything to do choosing the healthiest food for your dog plus provides detailed help with managing all the common dog food issues you may experience with your dog.

First of all, you must decide whether a dog is right for your family or not. What are some things to think about when deciding on this? Consider the fact that dogs need attention, they cannot go everywhere with you, you have to give them food and water daily, they do get sick and have to go to the veterinarian, they need medicines such as flea medicine and heart worm medicine each month and you have to make sure they get exercise each day, they need to get brushed and bathe regularly and sometimes, you even have to brush their teeth.

On the positive side of the agenda: they are a lot of company, they give unconditional love, they will keep your feet warm when it is cold outside, they will force you to get into that exercise routine (walking), you have been meaning to get started on, they will warn you if anyone comes near your house (in a very loud, threatening manner, you will never need a doorbell again), they are excellent traveling companions, and they will great you happily when you come home at night. They can also help your child to find themselves through their love of their dog.

Once you have determined that a dog is right for you and your family, the next thing you need to do is to determine what type of dog you want and where to get it from. These are important questions that you need to answer. Do you have a small apartment or a large house? Do you have a big yard or just a small one? Do you or your children have allergies? Do you have small children or older ones or is it just you at home? Do you have a lot of money to spend on a dog and its care or is the budget a little tight? Do you want to train a puppy or do you want an older dog that is already trained and possibly spayed or neutered? Can you deal with giving the love and care that a dog with some issues may need in return for a dog that will show you so much appreciation that you will wonder if its little heart is going to burst? Depending on your answers to the above questions, you might want to consider a rescue dog. You see, there are thousands of dogs out there who have been abandoned, neglected or abused, and have been rescued by one of a number of rescue dog societies or by a caring individual who took it to a shelter. These dogs are looking for a good home where people will care for them and give them love.

These dogs are much less expensive to adopt than it would be to outright purchase a puppy. They are usually up to date on their shots and have been spayed or neutered. They are certified to be adoptable before you even see them. If you decide a rescue dog is right for you, there are several ways you can find the right dog for you. Look in your local phone book for the ASPCA shelter near you and give them a call. Tell them what type of dog you are looking for and they will let you know when one is available for adoption or you can just go in during regular business hours and see if you can find the right dog for you. You can also go online and search for the rescue society of the particular breed you are interested in. There are many rescue societies that specialize in rescuing a particular breed of dog. These rescue societies do put ads in places like Craig's List or your daily newspaper if they have a dog available.

Once you find out that there is a dog available, the fun begins. You will probably give an opportunity for a short interview where you will be asked what type of house you have, how many people are living in your home and if there are children, how old are they. You will be asked what type of dog you are looking for, such as elderly, adult, adolescent or puppy and whether you want the dog to be active and noisy or inactive and quiet. In other words, they want to find out what type of dog is right for your household so they can determine if they have a dog that is right for you. They are also concerned that the dog is getting a good, loving home especially if that dog has experienced neglect or abuse in its last home. If the initial interview turns out well, then the rescue society will probably arrange for an in home business, requesting that all members of your family be at home.

They will bring the dog to your home so it can see if it likes you and you can see if you like it. If it is a match made in heaven, you will be given some papers to sign and they will contain information about your dog, the type of food to feed it, what shots it may need and any special needs it has. If you accept the dog, you will be given a trial period to determine if you and your dog are a match. The members of the rescue society are available to answer questions and help you along in your relationship between you and the dog.

What one must remember in determining if a rescue dog is right for you is that these dogs have been neglected or abused and may be skittish, afraid, or have problems with eating or other issues. You may give the dog treats, the rescue society will tell you which ones are okay. You will need to reward the dog for good behavior and let it know who is in authority. At first, the dog may be fearful or act out with some sort of bad behavior until it knows what it is that you expect of it. However, if you are patient with the dog and are willing to understand the issues it might have and work to help it overcome those issues, you will never find a more loyal, loving and appreciative dog because you have given it a loving, caring home where it feels safe and is happy.

So, you decided on a rescue dog, he or she is a shy but sweet little or big bundle of fur. You have brought your dog home. First you let her sniff around and get used to you, your family and your house. Now comes the fun part, acclimating your rescue dog to your home and your family. Hopefully, you found something out about your dog's situation before you picked the little girl or boy out. A good rescue society would tell you if your dog was just neglected or abused or both. They may not tell you exactly what the situation was that your dog faced or for how long. Depending on what your dog faced before rescue, you are going to have to handle your dog with care. In order to get your new friend acclimated to your home and your family, you are going to need to have lots of patience and lots of love.

Once the people from the rescue society who have brought your dog to you have handed you the leash and left, it is reality time. The first thing you want to do is to get your dog familiar with its new surroundings. First of all, take your new pet outside so it can relieve itself. Then come back in and take the dog to the parts of your house or apartment where you are going to allow it to roam and let it sniff around to get familiar with its surroundings. The next thing you need to do is to let the dog get used to each member of the family. Let the dog spend some time with each person. If you have little ones, teach them not to jump or make fast movements with the dog. That might frighten the dog and he or she will instinctively either jump at the person or shy away and perhaps relieve itself on the floor.

Teach them to stay very still and extend their hands, palm up, to the dog and allow the dog come and sniff. Then, they can slowly extend their hand to pet the dog or give it a treat. Find out from the rescue society if the dog likes a particular treat so you can make sure you have them on hand when the dog is brought to your home. Now, the next thing to do is to just relax and get to know your dog. If you haven't purchased a set of bowls, dog food or a crate your dog can call home yet, now is the time to do it. Take your dog for a ride to the nearest pet store. All of the major chain pet stores allow you to bring your pet in on a leash. This is a good first outing for you to try with your new pet. This is a good idea for a number of reasons. First, you will find out how your pet behaves in the car. Some dogs love to ride in a car. Others aren't so good.

They shake, whine, shiver, bark and generally are very uncomfortable. A short trip to the pet store is a good way to check this out before you commit to taking a long trip with your dog. Now, once you are at the store with a good, secure leash on your dog, wander around, let your dog sniff at everything and ask one of the associates there what they would recommend as far as supplies go. We were told to use ceramic or metal bowls for food and water because they would be less likely to become contaminated then plastic. Then, we were told to get a crate because our dog had been crate trained. Make sure the crate gives your dog enough room to turn around and lay down comfortably. Who needs to be cramped? Crates are used to give your dog a place they can call their own where they feel safe and secure. Of course, our dog has chosen a section of our sectional which we have put her for her. Make sure you get a pad or pillow for the bottom of the crate so your dog has a nice soft place to lay down.

The only other things you absolutely should get at this time are whatever type of dog food your rescue society recommended and some treats for training purposes. A chew toy or two are also a good idea at this point. Another necessity are doggy potty pads. They sell them at just about any pet store and until you and your dog are used to each others routines, they can keep floors and carpets from having to be shampooed on a regular basis. Okay, so now you have completed your first adventure with your dog and you are back home. You have spent some time getting acquainted. Now, while one member of the household is busy figuring out how to put the crate together, one of the others should give the dog some food and water. Keeping your dog hydrated is very important. Make sure that water dish is at least half full and it has fresh water in it. I made it a habit to change the water in our dog's water dish at least twice a day. You don't like stale water either, now do you? If the first type of dog food you get your dog doesn't seem to work out, as in, your dog refuses to eat it, don't worry.

Sometimes you will have to try several different types before you hit on the one your dog likes. It took us about five tries to get it right. That is why you should purchase small quantities at first until you find the brand your dog will eat. The only thing you want to make sure you do is avoid anything with lamb meal in it. Lamb is difficult for a dog to digest. The first day your dog is home with you, it is a good idea to keep the doors closed of any rooms that you do not want your dog exploring. Until you can determine the level of housebreaking your dog has experienced, it is best to confine them to a certain, preferably uncarpeted, area of the house. Put those potty pads down near doorways. If your dog has had any level of housebreaking, it will probably do its business on the potty pad if it hasn't been taken out for a walk in a while. It is a good idea to take your dog out every couple of hours at first for two reasons.

The first is to get it used to walking with you on a lead. The second is so the dog can relieve itself outside and not on your favorite rug. You will get to know how often the dog really needs to go out after a short period of time, probably a couple of days. The first night your dog is home with you can be difficult. I recommend trying to get your dog on the weekend so you are not having to get up to go to work or school the day after you get your dog. It may be difficult to get this beautiful bundle of fur to sleep the first night. He or she may want company because of being in a strange place. You can put a treat in your dog's crate and very firmly but gently tell your dog to go in the crate and stay. Let the whimpering begin! If you are very lucky, your dog will go into its crate and go right to sleep. If not, your dog will begin whimpering or outright barking as soon as everyone has gone to bed. Come back to the crate and pet the dog for a minute to reassure it that everything is okay, then say stay and go back to bed. The next time it whimpers, ignore it for a while and see if it will settle down.

Normally they will. If not, you repeat the going to reassure it routine a couple more times and then eventually, it will settle. The first night our dog was with us, my son and I took turns keeping her company. After the first night, she was okay though and settled down and went to sleep without any problems. Guess it was just that first night in a new home with a new crate. Our dog has not slept in a crate in a long time now. She pretty much has the run of the house since she has shown she can be trusted. She sleeps in her own little doggy bed which is on the floor of my daughter's bedroom. This is perfectly acceptable to us, but everyone must do what is most comfortable for them and their dog. The first days with a rescue dog are challenging as they are with any new puppy that you bring into the house.

The dog has to get used to a new routine and new people and is probably still suffering ill effects from the situation it had to be rescued from. Your dog may be skittish, it may relieve itself any time you or some other member of your family come near it, assuming a submissive posture, rear end down on the floor, looking up at you with a pitiful look and before you can tell it that everything is okay, well, there is a puddle on the floor. If your dog starts to assume the submissive posture, grab it and put it outside or on the potty pad to relieve itself. Either that or tell that cute dog to come to you. That is sometimes all you need to do to keep the floor from getting wet.

Your dog may have learned behaviors that are not acceptable to you and your household. When your dog does something that is unacceptable, move it from the place that it is doing that behavior and put it in a different location. Then tell or show the dog what you want it to do. When it responds correctly, offer positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement of good behaviors through giving treats and saying, "good dog" when the dog is doing something you want it to do will keep it from resorting to those bad behaviors after a while. Remember, your dog wants to please you. It just needs to learn what pleases you and displeases you. It also needs help to break negative behaviors it might have learned as a method of survival.

Rescue dogs are wonderful. They are so happy to be given a second chance at a good home that they will work very hard to please you. They do require a lot of patience and love. If you are patient and caring with them, they will give back to you ten fold. After a year and a half with our little rescue, I hardly have to explain any more that she is a rescue and doesn't play well with others. She has developed a sense of self through love and caring and now she is beginning to act like, well, like a self-confident little dog who is well loved and cared for. We wouldn't trade her for anything and we are so glad she came into our lives. Have fun, be patient and give lots of love! You will be rewarded greatly.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Vikki Gigante is a work from home mom living in Frederick, Maryland with her husband, two children and her cockapoo, Cocoa. She is the owner of hgmarketingonline.com and is an amateur radio operator and Civil War Living Historian.

Though this variety has not attained such popularity as its English cousin, it is not because it is regarded as being less pleasing to the eye, for in general appearance of styleand outline there is very little difference; in fact, none, if the chiselling of the head and colour of the coat be excepted. The beautiful rich golden, chestnut colour which predominates in all well-bred specimens is in itself sufficient to account for the great favour in which they are regarded generally, while their disposition is sufficiently engaging to attract the attention of those who desire to have a moderate-sized dog as a companion, rather than either a very large or very small one. Probably this accounts for so many lady exhibitors in England preferring them to the other varieties of Setters.

We have to go over to its native country, however, to find the breed most highly esteemed as a sporting dog for actual work, and there it is naturally first favourite; in fact, very few of either of the other varieties are to be met with from one end of the Green Isle to the other. It has been suggested that all Irish Setters are too headstrong to make really high-class field trial dogs.

Some of them, on the contrary, are quite as great in speed and not only as clever at their business, but quite as keen-nosed as other Setters. Some which have competed within the past few years at the Irish Red Setter Club's trials have had as rivals some of the best Pointers from England and Scotland, and have successfully held their own. The Secretary of the Irish Setter Club is Mr. S. Brown, 27, Eustace Street, Dublin, and the standard of points as laid down by that authority is as follows:-

HEAD... The head should be long and lean. The skull oval (from ear to ear), having plenty of brain room, and with well-defined occipital protuberance. Brows raised, showing stop. The muzzle moderately deep and fairly square at the end. From the stop to the point of the nose should be fairly long, the nostrils wide, and the jaws of nearly equal length, flews not to be pendulous. The colour of the nose dark mahogany or dark walnut, and that of the eyes (which ought not to be too large) rich hazel or brown. The ears to be of moderate size, fine in texture, set on low, well back, and hanging in a neat fold close to the head.

NECK... The neck should be moderately long, very muscular, but not too thick; slightly arched, free from all tendency to throatiness.

BODY... The body should be long. Shoulders fine at the points, deep and sloping well back. The chest as deep as possible, rather narrow in front. The ribs well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room. Loins muscular and slightly arched. The hind-quarters wide and powerful.

LEGS AND FEET... The hind-legs from hip to hock should be long and muscular; from hock to heel short and strong. The stifle and hock joints well bent, and not inclined either in or out. The fore-legs should be straight and sinewy, having plenty of bone, with elbows free, well let down, and, like the hocks, not inclined either in or out. The feet small, very firm; toes strong, close together, and arched.

TAIL... The tail should be of moderate length, set on rather low, strong at root, and tapering to a fine point, to be carried as nearly as possible on a level or below the back. COAT... On the head, front of legs, and tips of ears the coat should be short and fine; but on all other parts of the body and legs it ought to be of moderate length, flat, and as free as possible from curl or wave.

FEATHERING... The feather on the upper portion of the ears should be long and silky; on the back of fore and hind-legs long and fine; a fair amount of hair on the belly, forming a nice fringe, which may extend on chest and throat. Feet to be well feathered between the toes. Tail to have a nice fringe of moderately long hair, decreasing in length as it approaches the point. All feathering to be as straight and as flat as possible.

COLOUR AND MARKINGS... The colour should be a rich golden chestnut, with no trace whatever of black; white on chest, throat, or toes, or a small star on the forehead, or a narrow streak or blaze on the nose or face not to disqualify.

It is obviously useless to shoot game unless you can find it after it has been wounded or killed, and from the earliest times it has been the habit of sportsmen to train their dogs to do the work which they could not always successfully do for themselves.

The Pointers, Setters, and Spaniels of our forefathers were carefully broken not only to find and stand their game, but also to fetch the fallen birds. This use of the setting and pointing dog is still common on the Continent and in the United States, and there is no inaccuracy in a French artist depicting a Pointer with a partridge in its mouth, or showing a Setter retrieving waterfowl.

The Springer and the old curly-coated water-dog were regarded as particularly adroit in the double work of finding and retrieving. Pointers and Setters who had been thus broken were found to deteriorate in steadiness in the field, and it gradually came to be realised that even the Spaniel's capacity for retrieving was limited. A larger and quicker dog was wanted to divide the labour, and to be used solely as a retriever in conjunction with the other gun dogs.

The Poodle was tried for retrieving with some success, and he showed considerable aptitude in finding and fetching wounded wild duck; but he, too, was inclined to maul his birds and deliver them dead. Even the old English Sheepdog was occasionally engaged in the work, and various crosses with Spaniel or Setter and Collie were attempted in the endeavour to produce a grade breed having the desired qualities of a good nose, a soft mouth, and an understanding brain, together with a coat that would protect its wearer from the ill effects of frequent immersion in water.

One very remarkable attribute of the Retriever is that notwithstanding the known fact that the parent stock was mongrel, and that in the early dogs the Setter type largely predominated, the ultimate result has favoured the Labrador cross distinctly and prominently, proving how potent, even when grafted upon a stock admittedly various, is the blood of a pure race, and how powerful its influence for fixing type and character over the other less vital elements with which it is blended.

From the first, sportsmen recognised the extreme value of the new retrieving dog. Strengthened and improved by the Labrador blood, he had lost little if any of the Setter beauty of form. He was a dignified, substantial, intelligent, good-tempered, affectionate companion, faithful, talented, highly cultivated, and esteemed, in the season and out of it, for his mind as well as his beauty. It is only comparatively recently that we have realised how excellent an all-around sporting dog the Retriever has become. In many cases, indeed, where grouse and partridge are driven or walked-up a well-broken, soft-mouthed Retriever is unquestionably superior to Pointer, Setter, or Spaniel, and for general work in the field he is the best companion that a shooting man can possess.

GENERAL APPEARANCE... That of a well-proportioned bright and active sporting dog, showing power without lumber and raciness without weediness.

HEAD... Long, fine, without being weak, the muzzle square, the underjaw strong with an absence of lippiness or throatiness.

SHOULDERS...Oblique, running well into the back, with plenty of depth of chest. BODY...Short and square, and well ribbed up.

STERN...Short and straight, and carried gaily, but not curled over the back. FORE-LEGS...Straight, pasterns strong, feet small and round.

WEIGHT...From 65 lb. to 80lb. for dogs; bitches rather less. As a rule the Retriever should be chosen for the intelligent look of his face, and particular attention should be paid to the shape of his head and to his eyes. His frame is important, of course, but in the Retriever the mental qualities are of more significance than bodily points. There has been a tendency in recent years among Retriever breeders to fall into the common error of exaggerating a particular point, and of breeding dogs with a head far too fine and narrow, it is what has been aptly called the alligator head, lacking in brain capacity and power of jaw. A perfect head should be long and clean, but neither weak nor snippy. The eye should be placed just halfway between the back of the neck and the tip of the nose.

It is pleasing to add that to this beautiful breed the phrase "handsome is as handsome does" applies in full measure. Not only is the average Retriever of a companionable disposition, with delightful intelligence that is always responsive, but he is a good and faithful guard and a courageous protector of person and property. It has already been said that the majority of the best-looking Retrievers are also good working dogs, and it may here be added that many of the most successful working dogs are sired by prize-winners in the show ring.

Originally this variety was known as the Gordon Setter, but this title was only partly correct, as the particular dogs first favoured by the Duke of Gordon, from whom they took the name, were black, tan, and white, heavily built, and somewhat clumsy in appearance. But the introduction of the Irish blood had the effect of making a racier-looking dog more fashionable, the presence of white on the chest was looked upon with disfavour, and the Kennel Club settled the difficulty of name by abolishing the term "Gordon" altogether.

It is very difficult to account for the lack of interest which is taken in the variety outside Scotland, but the fact remains that very few have appeared at field trials within recent years, and that only about four owners are troubling the officials of English shows regularly at the present time. In France, Belgium, Norway, and especially in Russia this handsome sporting dog is a far greater favourite than it is in Great Britain, not only for work with the gun, but as a companion, and it is a fact that at many a Continental dog show more specimens of the breed are exhibited than could be gathered together in the whole of the United Kingdom.

The Black and Tan Setter is heavier than the English or Irish varieties, but shows more of the hound and less of the Spaniel. The head is stronger than that of the English Setter, with a deeper and broader muzzle and heavier lips. The ears are also somewhat longer, and the eyes frequently show the haw. The black should be as jet, and entirely free from white. The tan on the cheeks and over the eyes, on the feet and pasterns, should be bright and clearly defined, and the feathering on the fore-legs and thighs should also be a rich, dark mahogany tan.

Find the Right Dog or Puppy for You I'm excited to share with you some helpful and insightful tips and hints that can help you to choose, understand, appreciate and train your new canine friend. Many of you are probably busy with jobs, home and the kids. Stay at home moms might be going back to school. Others are single and juggling a job and school. Everybody can choose and train the right breed of dog that will be compatible with their own lifestyle.

Training can only take 15 minutes per day, more or less according to the breed's temperament towards the training. It is a time commitment, but definitely worth the effort. The trick is choosing the right breed of dog that will fit in with your lifestyle. With correct training and socialization, your new dog will learn his place in the family "pack" and you will enjoy him so much more as a polite and long lasting companion! You can train the new puppy you just brought home, or an older dog that you adopted. Even your canine pal that you've had for years can be trained to be a more obedient and polite friend!

Different breeds of dogs have different temperaments, and training needs to be approached accordingly. Some dogs need a firm heavier hand, while others need only a soft "no". And then there are the ones in the middle who respond best to both approaches. But all need plenty of reassurance that you love them and are their fair and consistent pack leader. Make sure that you understand the particular temperament of your breed. That way you can reasonably assume how your dog will react to different situations. This is especially important when taking your dog or puppy out into the human world (such as parks, malls, fairs, outdoor picnics and events, etc.).

When you understand your dog's temperament, then you can use these characteristics to your advantage in training. For example, if your dog's breed is shy or skittish, due to being raised harshly or it is just a breed characteristic, you will know to use a soft manner and voice when correcting, and give plenty of praise if he does well. On the other hand, if your dog's breed is aggressive and maybe a little unruly, then you know you have to use a heavier and firmer hand and a definite voice of authority when training him. This type of dog needs to know that you are the boss, not him! Then you have all kinds of temperaments in between. The more you get to know your puppy or dog, combined with the knowledge of his breed's temperament, the easier it will be for you to adjust your training techniques. An excellent way to start understanding your dog or your would-be dog or puppy is to purchase a breed specific book at your local pet store or bookstore, or go online to amazon.com, or any of the other online bookstores and purchase one there.

That way you'll get a heads up on your dog, and will know what to expect when you get him home! If you acquire a mixed breed dog or puppy from the shelter, not to worry. Usually you can determine the dominant breed by looking at the pup or dog. You can also ask your veterinarian his opinion when taking the animal in for his shots. Read up on that breed, and you should be in pretty good shape. Remember to pick a dog or puppy that will be compatible with your lifestyle. If you live in an apartment, don't choose a Saint Bernard, but you could choose a small lapdog.

If you want a family dog and have a yard, a Golden Retriever might be right for you. If you want an obedience competitive dog, a Border Collie or Australian Shepherd is a good choice. If you need a guard dog, a German Shepherd or Doberman Pinscher would fill your needs. Do your research to see what breed would be right for your lifestyle, how much time you can devote to your dog, and the kind of environment that you live in (farm, apartment, suburbs, etc.). If you do these things you're more likely to keep your dog for a lifetime. That way we can keep fewer animals out of the pounds and more into loving homes.

To learn how to train your new dog or puppy please visit www.sitandheel.com This site will help you decide how you want to train your new pal!

I have been raising, breeding, showing and training dogs for over 20 years. I consider training to be a very important element in raising your canine pal. A good training program can change your dog from a "pet" to a lifelong companion!

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